Mark Writes

We've been back from our little excursion to Jerusalem for several days, but between limited access to tech and being wiped out from two days trekking through the old city on the hottest days of the year, we're just getting to the posting. It was hot like Texas in August, with the temp hovering at 40 C. (104 in American talk). The hotel had AC, but here in Beit Sahour we do without, so when the temp broke a day or two ago it was a welcome respite, thou V insists "hot is hot".

We crossed the checkpoint early saturday, and being the shabbat, the guards were few and lax so we walked though easily flashing our US passports, though the guys around us had a little more scrutiny. The bus ride was literally ten times cheaper than the taxi and took us directly to the Domascus Gate where our hotel was an easy ten minute walk.



When I say easy, I mean flat. I think very few people realize that the Holy Land is wholly hilly, mountainous in fact, with steep slopes into deep valleys with most villages (and settlements) located atop the rise. The old walled city itself spans between two hills so the ancient narrow cobbled streets are often at an incline of various degrees.

Wandering the streets gave me great joy, and we stopped to get V a decent pair of walking shoes, which made all the difference. The smell of spices, the colorful fabrics, and endless artifacts was delightfully overwhelming, tempered by the hawking calls of souvenir vendors. We meandered aimlessly, turning here and there as interesting streets called to us and found ourselves wandering into the Christian Holy of Holies, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.


This church contains the reputed location of Calvary - spot of Jesus' crucifixion and death - the slab where the women prepped is body (Stone of the Unction), and the Sepulchre where he was temporarily entombed. Earlier in the day we visited the lovely and lush GardenTomb , another place where J was supposedly entombed, and I found that place more likely, but it all depends on what you believe. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is divided into four distinct parts where four different sects manage and upkeep the place, and hold four different services, often at the same time with competing incense, chants, and congregations. Even nonbelievers cannot help to be awed by this place where the life and death of Jesus Christ so drastically changed the course of history.


We found a great little restaurant in an ancient building where Victoria had chicken and I had a delicious fish and rice dish accompanied by a most refeshing beer (the first in many days). Tired and hot, we found our way back to the airconditioned hotel, where we bathed, read, and slept in cold air for the first time in two weeks.


Breakfast at the hotel was alright. We watched the many different people going to and fro, from Hassidic Jews with their unusual hats and curly locks, to fully-veiled Muslim moms with their strollers. Back in the old city, we aimed toward the Muslim quarter and the Dome of the Rock. We walked most of the Via Delorosa - the path of Christ carrying the cross to Cavalry - and then to the Wailing Wall, now called the Western Wall, on the way to the Dome.



The Dome and the surrounding grounds were spectacular, (the outside of the Holy Sepulchre isn't mush to look at) but we were disappointed when the man at the door wouldn't let us in. We sat in the cool gardens and looked across to the Mount of Olives, the Russian Ordodox Church, and the vast Jewish cemetary on the opposite hillside. They started shooing non-muslims out around eleven, so we didn't get to go into the Islamic musium as I had hoped. Maybe next time. We did however go to the archeological museum where a couple of 2000 year old houses have been excavated, and we loitered along with an English speaking tour going through.


We also went to the Citidel and the Tower of David which has been converted a historical museum of Jerusalem. The tower offers a fantastic view of the whole city, and found the air-conditioned theater very appealing. In fact, we arrived ten minutes before the video show (which was somewhat disappointing in my opinion) and stayed for some time after it was over : ). After a light lunch at a touristy resturant, we paid more than we probably should have for a taxi. We did so happily though, for it took us from the Damascus Gate, though the checkpoint, and all the way to our front door.

Upon our return, I noticed when several of our Palistinian friends asked about our weekend and we excitedly mentioned our visit to Jerusalem, they were not interested in discussing it and inevitably pointed out that the were not allowed to go there. - jmk



The first stage of the Via De la Rosa.